How to Clean a Full-Suspension Mountain Bike?

When a bike is clean, it runs more smoothly, lasts longer, and looks better. As a result, it will be more pleasurable to ride, and you will save money in the long run.
While it might be enticing to leave it in the garage till your next trip, simply a few minutes spent at frequent intervals will enhance your riding pleasure and your bike’s durability.
Any build-up of dirt, no matter which shape your handlebars are in or how many suspension elements your bike has, will wear by moving parts if let to do so. So it’s just as crucial to wash your mountain bike after a dirty, damp ride as after the dry, sandy one.

Steps for washing your mountain bike

STEP 1 – Put Together Your Wash Area

First and foremost, you must choose a suitable location for cleaning your bicycle. Look for a location with excellent drainage. It’s best to use a sturdy bike stand to keep your bike off the ground. Dirt won’t spray back onto your bike this way. Your wash location should ideally be protected from the wind and rain. Make sure your workspace is well-lit and that you have enough room to work. You’re misinformed if you believe you need a pressure washer. These can take critical lubricant from bearings and damage your suspension, something you don’t want to happen!

STEP 2 – Put Together Your Tools

Put together your bike stand. Find one that spins 360 degrees, allowing you to remain still while spinning the bike. You’ll need a bucket, preferably one that’s brightly colored, so any oil or residue can be seen. Then obtain two brushes, one soft and one hard, and a hose with cold water and other cleaning supplies. These might be as simple as an inexpensive dishwashing liquid. Avoid using automobile items since they are often highly powerful and include oils contaminating disc pads.

STEP 3 – Wash And Lather

Install your bike on the work stand and start by rinsing it with cold water in layers from top to bottom, passing any debris down. Fill your bucket with warm water after that. To avoid scratching your frame, make sure your soft brush is clean and clear of grit and grime. Using warm water, apply the cleaning liquid straight to the brush. Foam the entire bike starting at the front and moving down from the top to avoid dribbles on parts already cleaned.

STEP 4 – Drivetrain And Tires

Install your mountain bike on the cleaning stand and start by rinsing it with chilling water in layers from top to bottom, sending any dirt down. Refill your pitcher with warm water after that. To avoid scratching your frame, make sure your soft brush is clean and clear of grit and grime. Using warm water, apply the cleaning liquid straight to the brush. Foam the entire bike, beginning at the front and moving down from the top to avoid dribbles on parts already cleaned. Tip: Never use a degreaser for this work; if the grease on your cassette is thick enough that soap won’t remove it, you haven’t been caring for your drive train. The only time we advocate using a degreaser is to remove the cassette from the freehub body; this way, there’s no chance of damage.

STEP 5 – Wash And Examination

Rinse the bike from top to bottom with a hose or soft brush, checking the frame, components, and wheels for any damage. Turn the pedals around simultaneously to allow water to flow through the chain’s links easily. A loose chain enables for more thorough cleaning.

STEP 6 – Replicate

Based on how filthy the bike was, you might need to repeat the process until it is completely clean. If the bike was unclean, remove the wheels. Pay close attention to the jockey tires and chainring since they can collect dirt and filth when squeezed. This is critical because a filthy drive chain increases friction and wear, increasing the likelihood of a mechanical failure. Make sure to clean around the suspension seals with care, as grit collected here might quickly cause costly damage. If the wheels were removed, replace them.

STEP 7 – Wash Again

Rinse the bike well to remove any soap or products that may have remained on the bike since this might create difficulties. Without a pressure washer, cleaning your bike is considerably easier since vital oil from bearings, headsets, pivots, bottom brackets, hubs, and jockey wheels is easily removed. On your bike, a free-flowing water hose or a pail of clean water with a soft brush is far more gentle.

STEP 8 – Drying

Removing the bike off the stand is the first step. Next, allow any standing water to drain and dry fully by standing the bike in the sun or a dry, warm place. A lint-free paper towel or cloth can also be used to absorb excess moisture. An airline might be beneficial if one is available. Finally, while you’re out with your notebook, double-check that your cleansers and pail are prepared and dry to use, and write a list of anything else you’ll need for the next time.

STEP 9 – Lubrication

Retrieve the wheels off the bike and place them back on the stand. If your bike is ridden in damp or muddy weather, polish it using silicone polish and a microfiber cloth to make it tougher for mud to stay and weigh it down. If you’re not sure or know you’ll be in a dusty, dry atmosphere, don’t use the polish since it will gather dust. Always massage polish into the frame with a lint-free cloth rather than spraying straight onto the rotors, which might contaminate the brake pads. Push any dirt away from the seals by cycling the forks and rear shock through their strokes. Wipe it off, then use a suspension oil or a drop of fork oil to lubricate the stanchions.

STEP 10 – Storage

It’s critical to lubricate your drive chain as quickly as the bike is dry, wiping away any excess. Coat any surfaces that contact water with a water repellent to protect your seal from water droplets. Hold your bike’s rear-wheel with a hook so that the brake levers are elevated than the calipers; this enables the oil in the prongs to rest on the foam seals, keeping them wet for immediate, smooth operation. This also lets any water accumulated in the wires or frame compartments drain.